Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale
by Don McCunn

Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale illustrates the unique "DNA" of body shapes by comparing 13 fitting issues for 13 women, a PGM commercial dress form, and the Vogue pattern fitting shell (#1004). All the body shapes are within the same Ready-to-Wear (RTW) size and every one is unique for all these fitting issues. There are no duplications.

Patterns are provided for making quarter-scale dress forms (Mini-Mes) of these 15 different body shapes as well as 2 men, and a 10 year old child. These Mini-Mes allow limitless designs to be protoyped in quarter scale with the fabric to be used for full-size garments. These designs can then be tried on different bodies to verify whether the design is appropriate for RTW or is only appropriate as a Bespoke pattern for one Mini-Me (see Bespoke vs. RTW).

The book also includes a new approach to creating patterns by tracing quarter-scale photographs of any body. This approach uses a handful of measurements to adjust the patterns to the specific size of the body. The underlying concept for this approach is that photographs show the shape of a body but not the size. Measurements show the size of a body but not the shape. By combining measurements and photographs, bespoke patterns can be created. This approach for creating patterns using photographs does not require in-person fittings as illustrated in the book. The resulting patterns can be used to make additional Mini-Mes for verifying the look and fit of an original design.

Perfect Bound Paperback: US $39.95
    ISBN: 978-0-932538-28-4
Case Laminated Hardback: US $55.95
    ISBN: 978-0-932538-29-1
8-1/4" x 10-3/4" (27.3 x 21 cm), 224 pages

In 2020 when the pandemic restricted in-person runway shows, the House of Dior used scaled down mannequins to display their haute couture designs for their Autumn/Winter Collection. In this video you will be taken on a unique visit inside the Dior workroom and see an amazing mythical "runway" sequence. A truly inspiring use of quarter-scale prototyping.

Some of the advantages of working in quarter scale include:

  • Minimal workspace is required.
  • Prototyping designs saves time and money.
  • Patterns can be displayed at their actual size on a desktop computer monitor.
  • Patterns can be printed on standard-size copy paper.
  • Pattern design and construction techniques can be tried more easily.
  • Different combinations of fabric can be explored more economically.
  • Working in scale can reduce or eliminate anxiety about making mistakes.
  • Yardage can be calculated accurately.
  • Designs can be evaluated to determine whether they are appropriate for ready-to-wear (RTW).
  • Quarter scale designs can be photographed on a table instead of a trip to the studio.
  • Anonymous photos on a client's Mini-Me does not violate privacy rights.
  • Permanent three-dimensional versions of designs can be conveniently displayed.
  • Use a desktop print and cut system for a complete CAD/CAM cycle.

Reviews

"This well-structured book about pattern making and fitting introduces a fresh approach to quarter-scale designing. An appealing choice for advanced sewists."

Melanie Kindrachuk
Library Journal, Jul 12, 2024

The patterns in the book are available on this website for free as a Ready-to-Print PDF file as well as DXF, SVG, and Studio CAD files. The Studio files are the format used for the Silhouette print and cut equipment which can be used to prototype design ideas using a CAD/CAM cycle.
 


Copyright © 2023 by Don McCunn